I find myself in the surroundings of Viale Premuda in Milan, during the days of recovery from the lockdown from covid 19. The city seems almost asleep these days. The streets are not very busy, there is little frenzy and even people walk more slowly than usual. The businesses have recently reopened and there is a pleasant feeling of welcome and gratitude when you approach any purchase.
I arrive at Alchimia very early, the place is empty for now but it fills up quickly. Being alone at dinner in a Michelin-starred restaurant can create suspicion.
"I like to dine with myself, as a passionate" advance to one of the young owners. The atmosphere is very pleasant, informal but very elegant.
"We don't like to call ourselves a starred restaurant, we prefer to consider ourselves a luxury restaurant"
I nod and look at the menu. There are two tasting itineraries, one "Menu +39" reserved for typical Italian products and dishes, the other "Alchemy" retraces the symbolic dishes of the restaurant.
I begin my tasting. In the tricolor menu dedicated to the restart I find the aforementioned "trattoria": simple combinations and "known" ingredients that trace the entire peninsula. In the taste, quality and presentation of each dish there is instead the real "luxury" understood as attention to detail and perfection.
Soft egg, crunchy green asparagus and Parmigiano Reggiano foam
Risotto Milanese - Langhe, Milanese-style creamed, Fassona tartare and hazelnut powder
Pork belly fondant with caramelized pineapple with mustard
Babà between north and south, with saffron cream and grappa essence
The menu includes amuse bouche alla Parmigiana, bread with sourdough, polenta chips and crispy homemade breadsticks, citrus and ginger granita, petit four for the grand finale.
People often go to the “starred” to gain experience, tell about it and boast of having been there. The "star" invites you to collect the premises as if they were attractions of the city to visit. It is difficult to return to it for habit and pleasure. Instead, I will return to Alchimia whenever I have the desire to spend a pleasant evening, enjoy excellent food and a chic and refined environment.
I conclude with a praise to the service, the kindness and friendliness of the staff: the young owners and all their staff are really good “luxury hosts”.